By Malia Chang, Apparel Merchandising and Management Undergraduate Student and Research Assistant

Fibershed hosted a symposium to discuss the topic “Relationships of Change.” It explored different avenues of the apparel industry that include the topics of people, policy, and materials that have various impacts and contribute to transforming the “soil-to-skin processes.” Critical matters of focus were textiles and fossil fuels, garment worker’s rights, in addition to laws regarding textile waste. The programs such as Fibershed Affiliates, the Fibers Fund, and farming-based workshops were acknowledged for making positive advancements and progress. Throughout the symposium, the primary goal was to “strengthen an international system of diverse textile communities that directly enhance regional economies for the purpose of generating permanent and lasting systems of localized fiber production.”

Creating the opening remarks of the symposium was founder of Fibershed, Rebecca Burgess, who spoke about the global textile industry and Fibershed Affiliate values, while highlighting the work that needs to be done. The significance of rural areas, such as the Central Valley of CA was emphasized. The following speaker, Ayesha Barenblat, led the first discussion topic “PEOPLE: Centering Women’s Rights and Climate Justice in Fashion” which focused on the human impacts of clothing, and the complex aspects of labor that includes the working conditions of garment workers.

With a focus on policy factors of apparel and textiles, presentations on Branson Skinner, from The Or Foundation, and Joanne Brasch from the California Product Stewardship Council provided greater insights. Skinner described a policy framework through the cost of waste management, global accountability, and volume reduction disclosures to drive circularity targets. In addition to the global policy framework, microplastics, PFAs, and toxic pollutants were discussed. Joanne Brasch notes textiles as having a problematic waste stream in uniforms, linens, and hospitality textiles. There are complex fiber blends, outdated labeling, and limited transparency. There is no consensus on how to address current issues.

The last set of presenters focused on “The Road to Sustainable Fibers and Textiles Presentations.” Jordan Masters and Nick Evans were from Central Appalachia Fibershed Affiliate and showed capability to create yarn in a humane way where open-source technologies are used as a tool for SME fiber producers. Anna Hunter, a Pembina Fibershed Affiliate, presented their training at the mill that opened in 2018. Mill training workshops were offered for business planning, hands-on mill training, and a wool pellet start up. Almost 100 people participated in the program. This allowed for the creation of resilient regional systems, opened up dialogue for mills across Canada with sheep producers for wool processing and textiles production.

Innovations with sustainable land management are also emerging. Linda Poole from The National Center for Appropriate Technology (NCAT) discussed the 5 solid health principles: soil armor, minimal disturbance, continual living root, plant diversity, and animal interrogation. These principles partake in building a sustainable system and current carbon farming practices include regenerative grazing practices, hedgerows, and activities that focus on the ground. This aligned with the presentation by Tameka Peoples from Seed2Shirt who gave a background about their products, services, and program. Currently, Seed2Shirt offers a US and Africa farmer enrichment program that covers topics on soil health, equipment, resources, and market resiliency.

Overall, the Fibershed Symposium provided insight into the current apparel and wool industry, efforts to address problems, and steps towards solutions. At the end of the Fibershed Symposium, they discussed educational goals. Many do not know where their clothes come from and the issues behind garments produced. Fibershed aims to bring more awareness about garment production and the problems associated with it, along with teaching generations how they can improve local textile economies with their consumption choices. Tameka Peoples highlighted current efforts of implementing sustainable textile courses that are in the early stages of being designed to demonstrate commitment to positive changes. The Fibershed symposium cultivated a platform for discussions on sustainability and transparency within the apparel industry. While challenges persist, steps are being taken to reshape the impact of the apparel industry.

Fibershed. (2023). https://fibershed.org/